The most vital of Braga’s many hilltops is the Sanctuary of Bom Jesus, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and place of pilgrimage for Christians who climb the white and gold zig-zag staircase to its doorways.
Six kilometres west, planted upon Monte do Castro as if a piece of Lego, sits one other monument that’s each incongruous but fully pure in a manner that means the divine performed a half right here too.
But SC Braga’s Municipal Stadium was designed, engineered and constructed by man — and on Tuesday, it’ll host one of many biggest membership sides on the earth, Real Madrid.
Braga will turn out to be the 152nd completely different membership Real have performed in 68 years of continental soccer, however by no means will the 14-time European champions have performed at a stadium with a backdrop fairly like this.
At the tip of the spiralling roads that result in the best level within the Dume space, proper subsequent to an previous quarry lies a stadium that appears to defy logic.
A stand with its foundations constructed into a rock; a large scoreboard perched on a granite embankment behind one objective; and nothing however empty house behind the opposite, providing a panoramic of the town under.
Braga’s unimaginable stadium overlooking the valley (Octavio Passos – UEFA/UEFA by way of Getty Images)
Known as ‘A Pedreira’ (The Quarry), the stadium may have been unremarkable have been it not for architect Eduardo Souto de Moura, whose creation was awarded the Pritzker Award in 2011, thought to be the Nobel Prize of structure.
“Being an architect is not an easy life, and to get international recognition for a small country like Portugal… I’m not going to pretend I suffer from false modesty,” Souto de Moura tells The Athletic.
“The Braga stadium might be the most difficult project I ever did. And perhaps for that very reason, the one I enjoyed the most.”
Souto de Moura was not the architect initially handed the reins for the undertaking in 2000. The vice-president of Braga City Council had already approached Norman Foster, the mind behind the Gherkin constructing in London and the glass dome of the Reichstag in Berlin, however he was too costly.
They known as to ask whether or not he may put them in contact with Santiago Calatrava, the architect who designed New York’s World Trade Centre Oculus. He knowledgeable the council they would probably run into a comparable drawback.
Sensing a chance, he agreed to a assembly the subsequent day to debate the temporary the place it was determined the capability needs to be 30,000.
“They had found a plot of land for a stadium, in a valley with a waterway. They thought the stands could follow the curves of the valley. I visited and fell in love with it,” says Souto de Moura.
“I nonetheless have the pictures I took on the time. Above the land was this previous quarry. I began to visualise the stadium under, enclosed by the rock. I informed the council I wished to construct it there with a 15,000-capacity stand carved into the rock after which do the identical on the opposite aspect.
(Eduardo Souto de Moura)
“There would only be two stands and people would be able to have a good view of the game. One thing I realised while designing the stadium was that every stadium is now a TV studio.
“That’s why I designed the lighting to be almost vertical above the pitch (they shine down from the extremities of both stands), and as close as possible. I am not an expert in football but it’s a kind of theatre, with actors on both sides.”
Turning his sketches into a actuality required innovation, painstaking experimentation and years of security testing — all whereas having to remain inside price range and a three-year construct time.
Two of Eduardo Souto de Moura’s unique sketches (Eduardo Souto de Moura)
The predominant ambition was to combine the stadium into the setting, subsequently trusses, poles and cables couldn’t be a part of the aesthetic as they are in most soccer stadiums.
The west stand is carved into a granite massif, to offer the impact of a Greek amphitheatre. It concerned 1,700,000 cubic metres of onerous rock and gravel being excavated earlier than the 18 one-metre thick uprights could possibly be held down by anchors.
Site of the excavation (Eduardo Souto de Moura)
Drawing inspiration from Incan bridges and Washington Dulles Airport’s roof in forming his imaginative and prescient for a cowl over the pitch, it was the expertise of working alongside Alvaro Siza Vieira to create the Portugal Pavilion at Expo ’98 World Fair that he leaned most closely on.
“It was a big open space under a concrete cover. It made me realise that it was possible to cover a structure without using glass or anything else,” says Souto de Moura.
“But UEFA said that there needed to be natural light, and that the stadium had to be ventilated so the cover could not be completely closed. I tried to make small adjustments to allow light to come in from above, using holes in the cover, but the sun would have come in and made circles of light on the pitch.
“I gave up on that idea and thought about leaving a rectangular opening that was the exact same size as the proportions of the pitch.”
A colleague travelled to UEFA’s headquarters in Switzerland and acquired approval for his plan to have two concrete slabs masking every stand, related and held up by a community of 25-metre-long metal cables that stretch throughout the pitch. Each one is related to girders, that are secured to the rock of the quarry.
(Octavio Passos – UEFA/UEFA by way of Getty Images)
It was a mammoth activity to realize the proper steadiness of forces with no pillars to assist the roof — which is a cantilever solely supported by the west stand with the cables anchored into the rock. Two giant beams on the high of each stands add assist however it took laptop simulations and small-scale mannequin exams in a wind tunnel earlier than it was secure to construct.
The stadium was efficiently accomplished in time for Euro 2004, a dwelling event during which Portugal misplaced to Greece within the closing.
Yet Braga nonetheless commonly solely fill half of the sector, which belongs to the town council, and Ricardo Rio, mayor of Braga and president of the town council, confirmed the stadium is up on the market earlier this month.
Estadio 1 de Maio was Braga’s long-term dwelling from 1921 till 2003. They have been paying simply €500 (£435; $533) per thirty days to lease their present stadium and, with enhancements wanted to modernise amenities, the council are chopping ties.
“The dialogue has opened, therefore we are going to formally make an assessment of the value at which the stadium could be sold. It only makes sense for the stadium to be used by Braga,” mentioned Rio.
View from the stands (Octavio Passos – UEFA/UEFA by way of Getty Images)
“I do not intend to demand the €200million that was invested in this facility, but, obviously, an amount that allows the City Council to be reimbursed and, for example, to make other projects viable, including the rehabilitation of the Estadio 1 de Maio, which after these years of abandonment, has ended up suffering very rapid degradation.”
There has been speak in recent times that Braga may construct a new stadium on the previous website, which is a thought that saddens Souto de Moura much more than it does to his distinctive creation being altered.
“Portugal is one of the hosts of World Cup 2030, and to be eligible for the knockout games you need a stadium with 60,000 seats” he says. “Braga only have 30,000. When it was built, Braga were usually finishing in the bottom half of the table, often at risk of relegation; now they’re near the top, so people now demand more of the club.
“If it was the other way around and the stadium was too big, people would be complaining as well. It’s a risk of the profession.”
Until 2013, Braga had solely received a single main trophy — the 1966 Portuguese League Cup. Since then, have they solidified their profile because the fourth-best group in Portugal, successful 4 home cups and establishing themselves in Europe, reaching the 2011 Europa League closing and qualifying for the Champions League group stage for the third time this season.
In line with their rising ambitions, Braga are near finishing their ‘Sports City’ undertaking, first set out in 2017, with a new ladies’s area complementing the sprawling academy constructing and pitches above the Municipal Stadium.
It has been a dwelling for Braga as they have grown into one of many massive boys of Portuguese soccer — and at the moment are 22 per cent owned by Paris Saint-Germain house owners Qatar Sports Investments.
It will not be on the grand scale of the Bernabeu however in a world of glass and chrome steel, this concrete amphitheatre by the cliff face is a murals as a lot as it’s a soccer stadium.
(Top picture: Diogo Cardoso/Getty Images)
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